Eastern Ethiopia (Harar)

⚠️ SAFETY WARNING: Government agencies (including the UK, USA, and Canada) advise travelers to reconsider travel (L2) to this region. While the city of Harar itself is generally stable, the surrounding Somali region and border areas can be volatile with risks of civil unrest and inter-communal violence. Travel after dark on roads connecting towns is discouraged. Families are strongly urged to consult their own government's official travel advisory before considering a trip, as circumstances and risk assessments vary.

Stepping into Harar is like entering a different world. The old walled city, known as Jugol, is a UNESCO World Heritage site and a maze of 368 alleyways squeezed into just one square kilometer. Unlike the broad avenues of Addis Ababa, Harar is intimate, colorful, and deeply historic. For families, the car-free streets of the old town are fascinating to explore on foot, with vibrant markets selling spices and colorful fabrics. The architecture is unique, with traditional Adare houses featuring elaborate interior decor of baskets and bowls, which many guesthouses allow visitors to tour.

The atmosphere here is more relaxed and tropical than the northern highlands. The influence of the nearby Red Sea and trade routes is evident in the food, the dress, and the language. It is a city of peace, known for the harmonious coexistence of Muslims and Christians. However, the most famous attraction for kids is undoubtedly the "Hyena Men" of Harar. For generations, these men have fed wild hyenas outside the city walls to prevent them from attacking livestock. Seeing these powerful predators being fed meat from a stick—or even from the mouth of a brave guide—is a National Geographic moment come to life.

Key Attractions

The heart of the experience is Harar Jugol, the fortified historic town. Walking the walls gives a great vantage point, and exploring the Arthur Rimbaud Center (dedicated to the French poet who lived here) offers a history lesson in a beautiful heritage building. Just outside the city, the nightly hyena feeding is the main event. Unlike a zoo, these are wild animals that emerge from the darkness when called by name.

Nearby, the city of Dire Dawa offers a different vibe with its colonial-era railway architecture. Between the two cities lies the Babile Elephant Sanctuary, though sightings of the rare black-maned lions and elephants can be difficult and require local expertise. Exploring the markets of Harar is an attraction in itself, where kids can see blacksmiths hammering out tools and tailors sewing brilliant velvet robes.

Practical Advice

Harar is best visited year-round, though it can be warm. To get there, most families fly into Dire Dawa and take a 1-hour minibus or taxi ride up the escarpment to Harar. The old city is not stroller-friendly due to cobblestones and steps; a baby carrier is essential for toddlers. Dress modestly (shoulders and knees covered) to respect the local Islamic culture.

Food & Drink

Typical meal times: Lunch is 12:00 pm to 2:00 pm. Dinner is often eaten communally and late, around 8:00 pm.

Typical meal costs: Very affordable. A hearty meal costs 300–600 ETB (approx. $2.50–5.25 USD / €2.30–4.80 EUR).

Dietary requirements: Vegetarian food is available but less dominant than in the Orthodox Christian north. However, fresh fruits (mangoes, cactus fruit) are abundant and safe if peeled.

Signature dishes:

• Fatira – A popular breakfast dish of flaky, fried flatbread often stuffed with egg and honey or vegetables, cut into small squares. Kids usually love this.
• Camel Meat – Available in specialized butcheries/restaurants. It’s a local delicacy, somewhat chewy but flavorful.
• Hulbet Marqa – A porridge-like dish with a spicy red sauce and butter, traditionally eaten by the Adare people.