Exumas (swimming pigs)
365 islands of sapphire water and swimming pigs 🐷🏝️
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Overview
The Exumas represent the quintessential Bahamian dream: a long, slender chain of 365 islands and cays where the ocean displays every conceivable shade of blue. For families, this region offers a very different experience from the bustling resorts of Nassau. It is a place of quiet adventure, where the primary highway is the water and the daily itinerary is dictated by the tides. The water here is renowned for its clarity—often described as 'gin clear'—making it exceptionally safe and inviting for young swimmers who can see the sandy bottom even at depth. The geography ranges from the larger, inhabited Great Exuma, which serves as the commercial hub, to tiny, uninhabited specks of sand perfect for private picnics.
Culturally, the Exumas are laid-back and maritime-focused. Life revolves around the sea, and visitors are quickly swept up in the rhythm of boating, fishing, and beachcombing. For children, the wildlife encounters here are legendary. Beyond the famous swimming pigs, families can feed rock iguanas on deserted beaches, swim with nurse sharks at Compass Cay (who are generally docile), and snorkel amidst vibrant coral heads. It is a destination that encourages digital detox, replacing screens with starfish and sunsets. While luxury villas and boutique resorts exist, the vibe remains unpretentious and deeply connected to the natural environment.
Key Attractions
The crown jewel of the region is the Exuma Cays Land and Sea Park. Established in 1958, this was the first land and sea park in the world and remains a pristine sanctuary for marine life. Families can boat through these protected waters to see untouched coral reefs, sea turtles, and an abundance of fish that are unafraid of humans due to the long-standing ban on fishing. It serves as a living classroom for children to learn about conservation and marine biology in the most direct way possible.
While not a traditional 'attraction' with a ticket booth, the experience of island hopping through the cays is the main event. Stops often include the Thunderball Grotto, a hollowed-out cay that families can snorkel into at low tide, famous for its appearance in James Bond films. The shallow sandbars, particularly around Little Exuma and the Cut, appear and disappear with the tide, creating temporary playgrounds where toddlers can safely splash in ankle-deep water surrounded by open ocean.
Practical Advice
The best time to visit is between November and April when the weather is warm and dry. June to October is hurricane season and can be humid. Logistics here require planning; renting a car is necessary on Great Exuma, but exploring the Cays requires a boat rental or hired charters. Sun protection is critical as the reflection from the white sand and water is intense.
Food & Drink
Typical meal times: Lunch is typically served from 12:00 pm to 2:30 pm. Dinner is usually enjoyed between 6:30 pm and 8:30 pm, though island time means schedules can be flexible.
Typical meal costs: Dining is expensive due to importation costs. A mid-range meal costs around BS$35–60 (approx. $35–60 USD / €32–55 EUR) per person.
Dietary requirements: Fresh seafood is the staple. Vegetarian options are available but can be limited to salads and sides in smaller local spots. Gluten-free requires asking, as flour is used in many batters.
Signature dishes:
- Conch Salad – Fresh queen conch diced raw with peppers, onions, tomatoes, and sour orange juice, prepared right on the dock.
- Boiled Fish – A breakfast staple, this is a light, clear broth with flakey white fish (usually grouper), potatoes, and lime, served with grits or Johnny Cake.
- Crack Conch – Tenderized conch meat, battered and deep-fried until golden, often served with fries and spicy dipping sauce.
Why this score?
Visiting the Exumas often involves navigating a chain of 365 cays by private skiff or chartered boat, offering a sense of exploration. Activities like snorkeling in the Thunderball Grotto and interacting with wildlife in the Land and Sea Park provide a rugged but accessible outdoor experience.
Why this score?
Medical facilities are very limited, with only basic community clinics available in George Town and few services on the smaller cays. Serious medical emergencies or specialized pediatric care require expensive medical evacuation by air to Nassau or Florida.
Why this score?
The Exumas have gained massive international recognition through viral social media coverage of the swimming pigs at Big Major Cay. While it attracts high-end yachting and boutique travelers, the actual volume of overnight visitors is moderate compared to the mass-market hubs like Nassau.
The Exumas are one of the most expensive parts of the Bahamas. Accommodation leans toward luxury villas and high-end resorts. A family meal at a simple shack can cost BS$80–120 (approx. $80–120 USD / €74–110 EUR). Groceries are significantly pricier than on the mainland due to shipping. Budget options are virtually non-existent.
Getting Here & Around
Getting Here
- Airports – Exuma International Airport (GGT) on Great Exuma receives direct flights from Miami, Charlotte, and Atlanta, as well as frequent connections from Nassau. Staniel Cay has a smaller airstrip for charter flights.
- Ferry – Bahamas Ferries operates a service from Nassau to George Town, though it is a long journey suited for those moving goods or vehicles.
- Private Charter – Many families choose to arrive via private boat or charter plane directly to the smaller cays to access the Exuma Cays Land and Sea Park.
Getting Around
- Car – On Great Exuma and Little Exuma, a rental car is essential for getting between beaches and George Town. Remember to drive on the left.
- Boat – To see the Cays and access the Exuma Cays Land and Sea Park, renting a boat or hiring a captain is mandatory. Water taxis are available between Stocking Island and George Town.
- Walking – Only viable within the very small settlements; distances between beaches are too great for walking.
Nearby Airports (2 airports)
George Town
GGTGeorge Town
Stella Maris
SMLStella Maris
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Packing List
Strictly enforced in marine parks to protect fragile coral ecosystems.
Essential for keeping phones and clothes dry during small boat transits.
Crucial for spotting coral heads and reading water depth when boating.
Sun is intense and you will be in the water for hours at a time.
The best way to remove sticky wet sand from children's legs and feet before getting back in the car or hotel room.
Sand flies (no-see-ums) appear at dusk and their bites are itchy; standard mosquito spray often doesn't work on them.
Resorts charge a premium for these; packing your own deflated set saves money and ensures you have them immediately.
With so many boat excursions and water activities, this keeps your device safe while capturing family memories.
Activities & Best Times
Hiking, wildlife, outdoor exploration, ecotourism
Unique wildlife encounters with swimming pigs, nurse sharks, and iguanas provide a globally distinctive nature experience for families. The dry winter months offer the most comfortable conditions for boat-based wildlife tours.
Beach resorts, marine activities: diving, snorkelling, kite surfing, wind surfing, sailing
Home to iconic spots like the Tropic of Cancer Beach and Thunderball Grotto, the region offers world-class water clarity and snorkeling. Peak season avoids the humidity and storm risks of the late summer hurricane window.
Urban tourism, museums, historical sites, architecture
George Town and The Hermitage provide authentic heritage experiences, but this is a nature-focused destination. The cultural offerings are good but not internationally significant enough to warrant 'very_good' when compared to globally recognized cultural destinations.
Sport tourism, fitness activities, active recreation
Dedicated trails on Stocking Island and kayaking in Moriah Harbour Cay National Park cater to active families. These activities are most enjoyable in the cooler winter months when physical exertion is less hindered by tropical heat.
Learning experiences, scientific sites, historical education
The Sea Aquarium at O'Brien's Cay offers a significant marine-focused educational experience for families. Calm sea conditions and peak tourism services are most reliable from December through April.
Scenic drives, countryside tours, route-based travel
The Queen's Highway on Great Exuma provides a scenic driving route connecting various settlements and beaches. Clear skies and dry roads during the winter peak provide the best driving environment for families.
Public Holidays & Calendar Next 12 months
Public holidays, festivals, cultural celebrations, and seasonal natural phenomena coming up in Exumas (swimming pigs) over the next 12 months.
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Travel Advisory
While several agencies maintain a baseline advisory, a significant number of major partners advise increased vigilance due to high rates of violent crime in urban hubs. Travelers should stay alert in Nassau and Freeport.
Safety Topics
Traveller Advice (2 groups)
Local social attitudes tend to be conservative. While same-sex relations are legal, public displays of affection may attract negative attention or hostility in some communities.
Female visitors should be particularly cautious as reports of sexual assault have occurred, sometimes involving watercraft operators or happening in poorly lit areas. It is recommended to avoid walking alone after dark or visiting isolated beaches.
Agency Summaries
Increased safety precautions are advised due to the persistent threat of violent crime in popular tourist and residential areas.
General travel is permitted, though visitors should remain alert to street crime and exercise caution with water-based activities and in secluded areas.
The safety environment is considered stable, but travellers should maintain standard personal security awareness as they would at home.
Heightened vigilance is recommended due to prevalent violent crime, including armed robberies and sexual assaults, occurring across the islands.
Travellers are urged to be highly vigilant because of significant crime levels, particularly in the urban centers of Nassau and Freeport.
No specific travel restrictions are in place, but visitors are encouraged to have full insurance and stay informed about local conditions.
Information is provided for general guidance only and does not constitute travel, safety, medical, or legal advice. Conditions may change. Users are responsible for independently verifying information before travel.